As you explore the beautiful landscapes around Nans-les-Pins, you’re walking in the footsteps of centuries of pilgrims drawn to the sacred Sainte-Baume grotto. A significant part of this rich history is marked by the presence of the Oratories of Sainte-Baume, small religious monuments that have guided and inspired travelers for generations.
The most historically significant set of oratories lies along the Chemin des Rois (Path of the Kings), the ancient pilgrimage route leading up to the legendary cave where Mary Magdalene is said to have spent her final years. This path, which begins not far from Nans-les-Pins, was once traversed by French royalty and countless devotees.
In the 16th century, Jean Ferrier, the Archbishop of Arles, commissioned the construction of seven oratories along the Chemin des Rois. These sacred markers served as points of reflection and prayer for pilgrims, each depicting scenes from the life of Mary Magdalene.
As you wander the trails, you might encounter remnants or restored versions of these historical monuments. The text from an old wood engraving mentions the fifth oratory, ‘Madeleine au Saint Sépulcre,’ once visible at a key crossroads. Further along the path, towards the Col du Saint-Pilon, the seventh and final oratory has been beautifully rebuilt, offering a glimpse into the original pilgrimage experience.
Today, these oratories offer more than just historical interest. They provide moments of tranquility and reflection for hikers and visitors exploring the natural beauty of the region. They are a reminder of the powerful story of Mary Magdalene and the enduring legacy of pilgrimage in this sacred landscape.
As you embark on the historic Chemin des Rois from the area around Nans-les-Pins towards the sacred Sainte-Baume grotto, one of the most captivating landmarks you’ll encounter is the Oratoire des Béguines, also known locally as the Oratoire de Miette. This third oratory along the royal path is not just a point of prayer; it’s a testament to artistic expression, enduring faith, and a poignant local story.
The local story associated with the Oratoire des Béguines, giving it the alternative name “Oratoire de Miette,” is a poignant tale from the time of the French Revolution. According to this oral tradition, a young girl nicknamed Miette (a Provençal diminutive of “Mireille”) witnessed a brutal act near the Sainte-Baume grotto. Bandits attacked and murdered her mother and uncle, who were employed as guardians of the sacred cave. Terrified and alone, Miette fled and sought refuge, instinctively hiding behind the Oratoire des Béguines. By a stroke of luck, she remained undiscovered by the perpetrators. The oratory thus became her sanctuary, a silent witness to the tragedy and her miraculous escape. This story, passed down through local memory, has given the oratory its second name, “Oratoire de Miette”, forever linking the monument to the young girl’s plight and survival during a turbulent period in history. It adds a layer of human drama and resilience to the oratory’s historical and spiritual significance.
All 7 oratoires:
1. Marie Madeleine délivrée des sept démons (startpoint in Nans).
2. La pécheresse chez Simon le Pharisien (when climbing from Nans to Plan d’Aups).
3. Oratoire des Béguines (Oratoire de Miette) (when you arrive at the plateau and see the grotto for the first time).
4. Sainte Marie-Magdeleine au pied de la Croix (close to Trois Chênes).
5. Sainte Marie-Magdeleine au Saint-Sépulcre (at the crossroads).
6. Sainte Marie-Magdeleine auprès de Jésus ressuscité (before the pass, mentioned as the sixth oratory noted by Du Chesne).
7. L’arrivée de Sainte Marie-Madeleine en Provence (at the pic Saint-Pilon).
(Photo from: http://randojp.free.fr)
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